It’s called the ‘Secret South’: the length of Western Australia’s coastline alongside the Southern Ocean that, until recently, has been largely ignored by the tourist masses. But as travelers get more intrepid and even the most remote places become more accessible, this is a secret that’s out of the bag. In the summer months, the packed hotels, motels, and trailer parks in Esperance, the largest city on the coast, are testament to the region’s growing popularity. And there’s a lot to see there: it’s a place you go to appreciate nature, to enjoy the wide open spaces and fresh air of pristine landscapes. For motorhome tourists, it is an unexplored treasure.
Esperance sits quietly on the shores of Esperance Bay, surrounded on either side by miles of secluded beaches. If it’s a bit of privacy you’re looking for, then you’ve come to the right place – just hop in your motorhome, drive for a while and find a quiet spot on the beach. You may have to share it with some of the kangaroos that enjoy basking on the white sands, but they won’t bother you. The beaches here are said to be the whitest in Australia, and the contrast of the sand dunes against the brilliant blue water is quite stunning. There’s a road called Great Ocean Drive that takes you on a 24-mile loop past the best beaches in the region, including West Beach, Chapmans Point, and Twilight Beach. If you are a surfer then you really will be in heaven as some of the best waves in Australia are found along this stretch. However, remember that this is the Southern Ocean… things can get a little chilly there!
On this trip you will also pass by the Pink Lake, which is a talking point of the region. It is actually a pink lake, although depending on the weather conditions, it can also be purple! The color is attributed to the high concentrations of salt-tolerant algae in the water. The salt here is actually 99.9 percent pure, and it’s harvested and transported all over the country. It’s a quiet and unique place to spend time, and there are camping spots and other forms of accommodation in the surrounding area if you want to stay a bit longer.
Off the coast of Esperance is the Recherche Archipelago, the largest island group in South Australia consisting of 105 islands spread over 270 kilometres. While most of these islands are inaccessible to humans, Woody Island is accessed from Esperance and is a popular nature retreat. It’s a beautiful place, with that sun-soaked atmosphere typical of a small island vacation. There are day trips to the island, or if you want to stay longer then a safari lodge nestled amongst the native plants is your choice of accommodation, overlooking Shearwater Bay!
There are three national parks near Esperance: Cape le Grand, Stokes and Cape Arid. While all three are worth seeing, Cape the Great is the most recommended. There are two campsites in the park, the best one is on the shores of Lucky Bay and has solar powered showers! Lucky Bay has the distinction of being voted ‘Australia’s whitest beach’, so staying at this campsite is definitely a good idea. If you don’t have a four-wheel drive motorhome, stay on the western side of the park, which has fully paved roads. If you have a 4×4, take the adventurous route and drive to the headland along the beach. If the season is right, you might see pods of whales surfacing off the coast with their newborn calves. The Park is located just 50 kilometers east of Esperance, making it very easy to access.
While the town itself is a nice place to stay and has all the accommodation options you could want, it’s not breathtakingly beautiful and is more functional than aesthetically pleasing. It has that country town feel to it, and the people are extremely friendly, so your stay will be very pleasant. What is impressive is the setting. The beaches alone are a good reason to visit here, and with other attractions such as the Recherche Archipelago and nearby National Parks to visit, your holiday here will not be a disappointment. You can choose to fly an hour and a half flight from Perth or drive from another hub in Western Australia. It is 720 kilometers to Perth and 476 kilometers to Albany. These are long distances and there is a lot to see in them, so why not take a tour and spend some time exploring the coast along the way? Think of Esperance as the icing on the cake… the delicious finale to your foray into Western Australia’s ‘Secret South’!
