I longingly recalled the peace of mind I felt that Saturday morning twelve years ago in the San Diego airport as I waited for my flight home.

Just a week earlier, he had boarded a comfortable airport bus for an hour-long drive through the unspoiled Sierra Madre countryside southeast of San Diego. We crossed the international border at Tecate on Mexico’s Baja California peninsula. Three miles further was the entrance to Rancho La Puerta.

“A lot of things remain unchanged at ‘The Ranch,'” said spa owner Deborah Szekely. “Recently (I discovered) an article my husband and I wrote shortly after we opened Rancho La Puerta in 1940: ‘Instead of a metropolitan existence, with its ever faster and artificial pace, (our purpose is) to have a an enchanting outdoor setting that renews vitality and strength, enthusiasm and hope, tranquility and happiness. Within weeks, our guests look, feel and act like new people.'”

Rancho La Puerta, North America’s first residential spa dedicated to the health of mind, body and spirit. “It’s always been one of the most popular spas with our customers,” said Susie Ellis, vice president of industry and development for Spa Finder Co., a New York City specialty travel agency. “They say it’s one of the most affordable, even after adding massages, body and beauty treatments. It’s also one of the few that still requires a seven-day stay because the owners know it takes at least seven days to totally unstressed.”

HIGH DESERT BEAUTY

I was long overdue for a return visit to the ranch when a friend and I pulled up to the flower-filled patio entrance last fall. After a brief orientation, the porters took our luggage to a luxurious “Villa Luna” studio in the suburbs, one of 86 ranch-style casitas set within 150 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens that form the core of 3,000 acres of desert ranches. .

The tile-roofed Mexican colonial-style villa was furnished with authentic native art and fabrics. A hand-carved wooden door opened into a comfortable living room and kitchen with a fireplace in view of the raised bedroom adjoining two bathrooms and walk-in closets.

Windows were opened everywhere to capture the Santa Ana breeze from the year-round balmy weather. Our two large brick terraces overlooked the rolling hills and Mount Kuchumaa beyond, long revered by the natives for its magical healing powers.

We arrived just in time for a late lunch on the shaded dining terrace. Several of us compare our accommodations. The rancheras and haciendas were smaller and more rustic than ours, but many had fireplaces. Some guests preferred their smaller, more unique casitas because they were closer to the center of activities.

The villas have the added benefit of being close to a satellite pool and Jacuzzi, where breakfast is served poolside in the summer months. You can get a massage (for an additional $10) at your villa instead of going to the Women’s or Men’s Health Centers. (About 15 percent of the guests are men.)

After lunch, we began filling out the class schedule for our first day, selecting from 75 activities for each fitness level. Every hour there is a selection of around 10 activities, including weight training, water exercises, volleyball, tennis clinics, dance, yoga, aerobics, abs and back, and legs and butt classes.

The yoga facility with its expansive views also hosts tai chi, Feldenkrais, and pilates classes.

In circuit training, you move from station to station in the weight room, in cadence to fast-paced music, switching machines when the instructor blows the whistle in 35-second intervals.

All classes are 45 minutes.

SACRED MOUNTAIN

On the first morning, I joined a group of advanced hikers who (unbeknownst to me) were planning to climb Mount Kuchumaa up its steep backside. It was a scramble just to get to the rear, but the strenuous climb was worth it for the magnificent sunrise view along the summit ridge.

Having conquered what some consider to be one of the “13 sacred mountains in the world”, I was content to join the hikers in the hills for the rest of the week.
Breakfast and lunch are served buffet style, and the calorie count for each item is prominently posted. The super-fresh vegetables and berries grown in the ranch’s six-acre organic garden are so good, it’s hard to resist a second helping. Breakfast favorites include the famous Tecate 12-grain bread, hot cereals, juice and delicious fruit from the garden.

Guests can also sign up to walk a couple of miles to have breakfast at the organic farm, followed by a tour of the gardens. After lunch each day, I would settle back with a good book on the terrace of our villa or take a nap in the shaded hammock nearby. Later in the afternoon, there was a gentle restorative yoga or meditation session.

“How do we get in touch with our own spiritual selves, or better?” asked instructor Phyllis Pilgrim in a ‘Journey Within’ guided imagery and deep relaxation class. “Shut up and listen to the little voice inside. Usually, we place a lot of importance on the things we do instead of just being.”

Guests varied widely in their opinions on the best time to schedule a massage, facial, or other body treatment. My preference was a relaxing massage right after the Inner Journey and before dinner. I recognized several massage therapists from my previous visit, and later learned that many of the caring and talented staff are second and third generation family members, along with founder Deborah Szekely.

GOOD DINNER

My friend and I saw very little of each other during the day until it was time to dress for dinner, “dress” simply means clean bodies and clothes.

The large Mexican Colonial dining room is adorned with a curved staircase that wraps around a fireplace from floor to vaulted ceiling. It is designed to comfortably accommodate 160 guests. The waiters seated us with four to eight other guests, and the pleasant conversation at the table was lively.

The organic food served at dinner was primarily vegetarian with Mexican accents, rich in greens, vegetables, and whole grains, with little fat or salt. Three nights, fresh seafood was served, and it was always possible to arrange for a baked potato or pasta alternative to the meal offered. For dessert: carrot cake, cinnamon flan or a baked apple.

On the last night we were treated to a glass of wine. One night, some guests snuck into the nearby town of Tecate for margaritas and Mexican food.

Evening events included movies, a healthy cooking demonstration, bingo, dancing or jewelry making and other crafts in the art studio. What I enjoyed most was the serene evening stroll from the dining room back to our villa to find the fireplace set for a roaring fire.

It was hard to leave the ranch on Saturday morning, but once again I took home a special inner peace that I hope will last a long time, at least until I return next year.

IF YOU GO

1. Book reservations well in advance. Otherwise, expect last minute cancellations. Call 800-443-7565 or check availability and reserve online at http://www.rancholapuerta.com.

2. There are no televisions or phones in the rooms. Mobile phones can be used in the rooms.

3. Be sure to bring proof of citizenship in the form of a valid passport, birth certificate, or notarized affidavit of citizenship.