The Scotland of India, that is how Coorg is known. Yes of course, it may come as a surprise to many as Scotland offers nothing but Scotch whiskey while Coorg is all about coffee. In fact, if you’re in Coorg, you can wake up to the smell of coffee, literally, just one of the many reasons why the people of Coorg choose to avoid any metaphorical connotations with Scotland. They have an adequate amount of their own, and homegrown, to be proud of.
The gist of it is that if you want to be pampered by nature, Coorg is the place to be: cacophony of birds, towering rosewoods, a coffee plantation backdrop, an interlude of pepper vines and cardamom pods, and the pure oxygen level in the air guarantees an unusual high. Situated on the slopes of the Western Ghats, more than 30 percent of the total area of the district is covered with forests. Not surprisingly, wildlife and humans here have formed an inextricable bond. There are around 300 species of birds found here. Also, a naturalist will tell you that being stung by a swarm of fire ants is good as a tetanus shot. Or when teak leaves when rubbed between the fingers give a rosy red color: Kodava women often use this red color as a blush. There are also wild elephants to watch out for, however most of the coffee plantations are fenced off with electrified barbed wire.
A long weekend is more than enough to explore Coorg and a homestay option is ideal. There is so much to choose from and unlike typical hotels the homestays have a casual approach which adds to the whole experience. The cook’s stories about the region serve as a fitting appetizer even as he gloomily talks about how no one grows oranges anymore. Curiously, very few would associate Coorg with oranges, a crop wiped out by pests nearly a decade ago. A few years ago, rice was the main crop in this region, before farmers slowly switched to growing coffee. Today, Coorg is the largest coffee producer in India.
The naturalist will easily help you distinguish between the Roubusta and the Arabica variety. The former rules the latter with regard to harvest area and cultivation and the mood at the planting site is quite optimistic as production is expected to increase this year.
Plus, seeing the coffee plantations, there’s a lot more you can squeeze into your itinerary here. In fact there are several places of interest within a radius of 50 km from Coorg. Madikeri, the district headquarters, for example, is dotted with spices and honey. Coorgi honey may be the best souvenir you can take home. The Omkareshwara temple, built in 1820, looks like a dargah from the outside, but it has a linga installed at the door. Then there is the Madikeri fort, the palace and the tomb of the king. But be sure to visit Raja’s seat, especially during sunset. Even if you have to wait a while, the view is worth it.
