The first Fisher & Paykel Smart Drive washing machines went out of production in 1991 and since then we have experienced 8 improved and more sophisticated models. Although they differ greatly, the most common failures are very similar. Based on our long experience, we can say that almost 80% of them have minor flaws, but still worth repairing. We will try to cover them all. If you find yours is different, it may be a combination of few cutlery.

NO POWER

This failure can be caused by the failure of one of the main electrical parts: motor, pump, rotor positioning sensor, reed switch, display panel, or one of the water valves. Also, the cause may lie in the motor controller itself. You can get burned by a water-related shortcut or a power surge.

In the motor controller “phase 4” (models 085, 058, 508, 608, 708) there is a mode in which it can be turned off in the event of a transient in the mains. What this means is that the machine will go into “sleep” mode and the module will not reboot unless power is removed at the wall for at least 90 seconds.

In “phase 5” (models 095-Fresh, 059-Pride, 509-Excellence, 609, 709) the pump is considered part of the power supply. If it is disconnected (tripped thermal cut-out which can be caused by pump blockage), the washer will be dead.

Repairing this fault is quite expensive and ranges from $100 to $250 between models.

The best way to avoid this is to perform regular and inexpensive service checks on all major parts and empty pockets before washing. If you buy a used washing machine, try to arrange cleaning, flushing and sanitizing services that will rid the drum and bowl of all the dirt that can cause pump blockage.

LEAKS

This is the most common problem with washing machines, and in some cases it is related to real technical problems and sometimes to misuse or incorrect installation.

Easy to notice leaks are from water taps, inlet hoses, hot or cold water valves, water mixing chamber. Leakage from the upper end of the drain hose is also easy to notice and the usual place is near the connection to the machine body.

Pump leaks are almost always due to an improperly secured pump mount; sneakers

the diaphragm and the pump itself are the ultimate causes of the leak. The next possible leak point is an air hood.

If the water level is not set correctly and the water is filled above the HIGH mark on the agitator, splashing may cause some “leakage”. Overfilling can be caused by a bad pressure line (dirty or punctured). Overloading clothes can cause the same problem.

Broken neck ring and damaged plastic inner container are other possible reasons for the leak, as well as excessive use of detergent.

Leak related issues shouldn’t be very expensive to repair (except for damaged inner bowl and main seal leak), up to $100 tops.

THE WASHER MAKES NOISE

The noise can be related to a few different sources, some of which indicate that the machine needs to be checked or repaired to prevent further damage.

If the washer makes a lot of noise during the spin cycle, the main seal and bearing are damaged. This fault must be urgently repaired, otherwise the water leak can damage the motor and the rotor position sensor.

The knocking sound is usually related to the drain hose, inlet hose, power cord, or harness. They are loose or the washer has not been leveled correctly. This may not cause any other major problems, but it could be very annoying.

Other knocking sound may be caused by the machine body hitting the inner and outer bowl.

The reason for this is that the water somehow escaped from two balance rings in the inner bowl. The same problem can be caused by overloading or uneven arrangement of clothes in the bin.

The pump can be a very annoying source of noise. This noise begins at the beginning of the spray/deep rinse or spin cycle and lasts until the pump empties the water. It has been caused by the rusted pump stator (water or moisture damage) or by the eccentric position of the rotor. The CRC spray will temporarily fix the problem and the new pump will save the machine from more costly failures (burned pump will burn out the triac in the motor controller).

Also, cracked or chipped rotor magnets can cause some grinding noise.

To fix the noise problem, you can expect anywhere from $50 to $350.

WASHER IS “DOING NOTHING”

The first cause of this failure may be in the reed switch (lid and balance switch). The broken switch must be replaced to prevent motor controller failure.

Water faucets can also cause this problem. The water must be connected and the taps must be open.

If the delayed start is activated, the Start/Pause switch will not respond.

When the auto level has been used, the machine will re-detect the water level every time the lid is opened.

SIPHON

This problem is related to natural law. Usually the standpipe height is too low. The minimum height must be 850 mm from the ground. The top of the drain hose should be routed through the “U” shaped hose guide no more than 2cm from the top of the guide. If the drain hose is pushed too far into the standpipe or drain, the washer will empty (siphon) water during the fill or rinse cycle.

Siphoning can also be caused by a clogged drain hose or a partially blocked pump.